Rebun Island Circumnavigation plus Rishiri Island

Rebun Island’s west coast 礼文島西海岸 is arguably the jewel in Hokkaido’s coastal-scenery crown. It’s only about 35km from north to south, but the northern latitude, brutal environment for much of the year, remote atmosphere, and vibrant flora and fauna easily secure it a deserved top place in most Japanese sea kayakers’ bucket lists. Add in the fact that it’s a relatively involved task just getting to the island, being there on the water does feel special.

On the west coast, paddlers can expect towering basalt cliffs, stunted pine and sasa bamboo grass-covered hills, and a few beautifully remote coves for camping. If conditions allow, a night on the northern uninhabited island of Todo-jima Island トド島 should also be on your list. The northern end of the east coast, as well as the expansive, sandy Funadomari Bay 船泊湾 at the northern end of the island, are home to multiple colonies of spotted seals. Across the island, flowers that only grow in alpine areas elsewhere bloom at sea level. Around every inch of the island, the water is crystal clear, almost feeling tropical at Funadomari Bay.

Despite being so close to Rebun Island, Rishiri Island has a completely different feel to its more remote neighbour. Rebun Island’s population is about 2,300, Rishiri is 4,700. Rebun’s highest point is 490m, Rishiri’s is 1,721m. Rebun’s geology is due to volcanic uplift and glacial carving, while Rishiri’s is purely volcanic. Rebun’s total land area is 80km2, whereas Rishiri is 180km2. If time, energy, experience, and conditions allow, it is well worth spending at least a day paddling on Rishiri Island. The 10km crossing can be done either in kayaks or by ferry.

• When to go: Rebun and Rishiri Islands have the most settled weather during the summer season of July to September. Outside of these months, the brutal Siberian monsoon weather flow from the northwest is usually in full force. During summer (June till August), the most common wind direction is east-northeast, with this direction occurring 25% of the time (source). These months also have the lowest wind speeds on average.
• Communications: Rebun’s west coast, for the most part, has no mobile reception. We recommend carrying a PLB or satellite messenger just in case. Everywhere else has good 4G mobile connectivity.
• Difficulty and sea conditions: When the weather is nice, this paddle is much more of a holiday than an expedition. That said, weather windows of more than a few days are relatively rare. This is a trip that requires good decision-making skills based on weather forecasts, paddling skills, and localized sea states. Rebun Island is a long north-to-south island though, so leeward conditions can be relatively easy to find. The same goes for Rishiri Island. A very stiff northerly wind will cause very challenging conditions on the north of the island, while the south will be dead flat.
• No bears or foxes on Rebun and Rishiri Islands: The lack of brown bears and foxes on Rebun and Rishiri help make paddling on these islands feel quite carefree. No need for extensive bear safety measures, and no concern about foxes stealing your gear. Bears were never on the islands, and foxes were eradicated in the 1970’s. Once every 10 years or so, there will be a news story of a lone bear swimming to Rishiri Island (the shortest distance is 20km), but such incidents are few and far between.
• Fishing port bylaw: A Hokkaido-wide bylaw prohibits pleasure-boats (including sea kayaks) from using fishing port facilities except in emergencies. Much of Rebun’s east coast is fortified by concrete, an most of Rishiri’s coast is inaccessible due to basaltic lava rocks. Therefore, it’s fair to say that any sea kayakers intrepid enough to get themselves and their kayaks to the islands will not have any issue with using the many fishing ports that dot the islands’ coasts.
  • Be friendly: If there are fishers at the ports, do say hi. Our experience was that they were always very friendly, so it’s unlikely you’ll have any issues.
  • Avoid 4:30am till 6:30am: Most kelp harvesting and uni sea urchin collecting happens in the early morning. Therefore, if using fishing boat ramps, plan to avoid having kayaks on the ramps between the hours of 4:30am (sunrise in summer) and 6:30am-ish. Either get away earlier than 4:30am, or wait till all the boats have left.
• Water and supplies: Both islands have relatively frequent small towns (every 20 to 40km or so) with stores. Mains supply water is available at any public toilet, and at a pinch, you’d be able to knock on someone’s door for water.
• Restaurants and accommodation: At the larger towns (Kafuka and Funadomari on Rebun, Oshidomari and Kutsugata on Rishiri), most restaurants will serve the best seafood in the world, not because they’re fancy, but because that’s normal. Minshuku and hotel accommodations will also serve the best Japanese-style seafood dinners and breakfasts you’ll ever eat. We recommend splurging at least one night at an accommodation that provides dinner and breakfast.
• Camping: Any beach on either of the islands is fair game for setting up a tent on. There are a number of such beaches on Rebun’s north and west coasts. For Rebun’s east coast and most of Rishiri however, beaches are few and far between. Expect to be camping (respectfully) at fishing ports.
• Campgrounds: There are two official campgrounds on Rebun, and five on Rishiri Island. In general, they’re far enough away from the coast to preclude their practical use by sea kayakers. Kushu-kohan Campground 九種湖畔キャンプ場 at Funadomari Bay on Rebun would make for a very nice layover location though, and is only 300m walk from the beach. Campgrounds are generally very cheap. Either up to 1000yen per night, or completely free.
• Toilets: Rebun and Rishiri have frequent public toilets, often very accessible at local fishing ports. They’re usually very clean. Water that comes out of the taps is potable (mains water supply). If not using public toilets, pack out all paper.
• Motorboat shuttles: There are no kayak shuttle services on the island (neither by land or by water). If you get caught out on the far north end of Rebun Island, for instance, there’s very little option but to wait out the weather to paddle back to the ferry terminal.
• Sea kayak rental: Unfortunately, there are no sea kayak rental outfitters on either island (see below for guided trips).
• Local community: Sea kayakers are a rarity on Rebun and Rishiri Islands. As such, we found locals to be curious and friendly when we interacted with them, despite it being the height of tourist season (early August).