Trans-Hokkaido Bikepacking Route (Version 2)
A Route recorded by jollynut@gmail.com on Jul 10, 16 -- View in full at http://ridewithgps.com/routes/14994158

Trans-Hokkaido Bikepacking Route (Version 2)
A bikepacking route across Japan's northern-most island. This route is still in development. I do not endorse doing this route - follow at your own risk, and obey all access restriction signage.
This Version 2 of the route is based on a scouting tour in August 2018.
See route description here: -- View in full at http://ridewithgps.com/routes/14994158

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Kokusetsu Shikaribetsu Campground
250yen per person, open 1st July till 30th September

Shika-no-yu Onsen
Outdoor free mixed onsen. Name means "the deer's bath"

Shikaribetsu Kan-no Onsen
Onsen facility, with outdoor bath, 650yen per person. Open 10am till 6pm.

Kokusetsu Nukabira Campground
350yen per night. Close to an onsen area with restaurants and hotsprings.

Nakamuraya Onsen
500yen per person, has mixed-gender outdoor hot pools

Yamada Onsen

Shikaribetsu Lake Kitagan Campground
250yen per person. Open from 1st July till 30th September.
Onsen is 1km away.

Fukuhara Hotel Onsen
1000yen per person, open from 3pm till 7pm.

Access the lake road from here if cannot cross dam

Free outdoor hotspring
See Addendum 1 here: https://ridewithgps.com/routes/15060080
Topographical map link:

Mikuni Pass - Highest paved road pass in Hokkaido

Tsutsuji Park Campground
No cost to stay. Very close to onsen.

Park-like area
Possible to camp

Onneyu Onsen
700yen per person. Open 1pm till 8pm.

Yu-no-yama Pass (840m)

Maure Memorial Museum
Old school converted into a museum. Around here somewhere.

Maruseppu Ikioi no Mori Campground
500yen per person plus 200yen per tent site. Onsen right next door.
Apparently, on Saturdays, Sundays, and public holidays, there is an old steam train that runs in the park; a Hokkaido heritage site.

Maruseppu Onsen
500yen per person, open from 10am till 8:45pm.

Onuma Campground
520yen per tent, nearest onsen is 15km away.

Hobetsu campground
510yen a night

Niniu Campground
300yen per person, plus 500yen per tent.

Kanayama-ko han Campground
610yen per person. Public baths next door.

Kanayama Kyuyou Center
Public baths. 410yen per person, 10am til 8:30pm.

Seicomart

Spar Convenience Store

Sahoro-ko Campground
Free campground. Nearest onsen is 11km away.

Karikachi-kogen Campground
Free campground

Grocery Store

Tomuraushi Campground
250yen per person. Onsen is 1km away.

Tomuraushi Onsen

Nupuntomuraushi Hot Spring
Wild hotsprings, mixed gender, free.
Note that this is the end of the line for any form of vehicular access. From here, a hiking train begins that heads directly north onto a ridge, before curving to the east, around towards the 'outdoor bath' on the eastern side of the mountain range.
See Addendum 1 here: https://ridewithgps.com/routes/15060080
The trail goes via Mt. Ishikari, at almost 2,000m in altitude.
I don't have any information about whether it would be feasible to push or carry a bike up the trail. If it were feasible, it would be epic: Connect this hotspring with the hotspring on the other side, and then carry on eastward.
Topomap:

Seikomart

Seven Eleven

Supermarket

Plateau and trail fork
See Addendum 1 here: https://ridewithgps.com/routes/15060080
Topo map link:

Mt. Ishikari (1,967m)
Topo map link:

Trail fork (descent towards onsen)
Topo map link:

Trail rejoins gravel road

Hiking trail follows ridge

Non-gravel alternative to gravel pass to the west

Onsen

Hotel

Restaurants in the onsen

Mukawa JR Station
End of the line due to typhoon damage further along the coast to the train line.

Paved alternative to southern detour

Bear Mountain
Unique within Hokkaido (and Japan), a bear ecology research center with 9 resident Ezo brown bears. This is unlike other bears-in-captivity attractions in Japan - these rescue bears have large areas to roam.

Bridge Missing
Bridge is missing. When lake level is high, this may require the detour marked. Otherwise, it should be possible to cross the river by foot.

Start of detour
Detour only required if lake level is very high.

Nice (but short) cycleway

Shimukappu Cycle Tourism Committee
The Tako-yaki Trailer guy may be able to lend you some tools to fix your bike.

Shimukappu Michi-no-eki
Nice bakery here.

Trees down blocking road
Requires some lugging of bikes

Tomamu Onsen
800yen per person

Excellent gravel condition

Onsen
900yen per person

Natural spring water

Washed out road
Hike-a-bike for 200m

Road washed out
Bush-bash required for 300m

Road washed out
400m section requires steep no-fall scramble along maintentance foot-trail.

Gravel starts from here

Store with basic supplies

Good quality gravel

Wild onsen next to dam wall

Gake-shita-no-yu Onsen
Wild onsen next to river

The Siddle Sizzler
One of the longest (if not *the* longest) gravel descents in Hokkaido - over 600m of vertical descent on loose but consistent gravel. Named after the chap who 'discovered' this section.

Alternate route if no need to visit Kamishihoro

Pharmacy
I bought alcohol for my stove here.

Large gate locked

Road is river
Entire road has been re-claimed by the stream. Requires a hike-a-bike along the stream for about 500m.

Park/campground
Free