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Cover |
Coast Pilot for Shiretoko Kayakers | |
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Foreword Rausu Town
Shiretoko World Heritage Rusa Field House (0153-89-2722) Shari Utoro | |
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Please strictly adhere to the Shiretoko Peninsula Cape Area Rules of Use This booklet is available at the following facilities. Staff are available to give a lecture on the use of the Shiretoko Peninsula Cape Area (hereinafter referred to as the "Cape Area") to those who wish to access the Cape Area. Shiretoko Peninsula Cape Area Rules of Use Website Shirecoco https://www.env.go.jp/park/shiretoko/guide/sirecoco/ More information about Cape Area recreational activities and brown bear precautions are available on the Shirecoco site. | |
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PlanningPutting in and landing Are you aware of the weather? Is your plan feasible in the allotted time? Appropriate clothing Water and emergency food PDF, spray skirts, spare paddles, and boat buoyancy | |
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Maps Float Plans *Translator's note: Float plans can be emailed (sasaki-w98wr@mlit.go.jp) or faxed (0153-87-5013) to the Japan Coastguard Rausu Office 羅臼海上保安署. Brown bear countermeasures Other wildlife | |
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The communities' request to kayakersShiretoko is full of boats. On the Rausu side, kelp harvesting is conducted early in the morning by boats under 1 ton. On both the Rausu and Utoro sides, fixed net fishing boats (17-19 tons) are operating constantly. In addition, small and large sightseeing boats cruise the coast of Utoro. Kayakers should always stay as close as is practical to the shoreline to avoid disturbing or obstructing these vessels. If a fisher calls out to you while you are kayaking, please respond. In the event that you need assitance on the water, it's local fishermen and tourist boats that will be rescuing you. To local commercial vessels just trying to go about their work, recreational kayakers are nothing but a nuisance. As kayakers, we need to be aware of our responsibility not to get in the way and cause disruptions. Be sure to ask permission before using any fishing operations' access ramps or beaches. Stay away from fixed gear nets, gill nets and other fishing installations. Unless absolutely necessary, do not approach private ramps, fishing huts, or other fishing facilities. Do not tie kayaks up to fishing nets when fishing, and do not catch fish caught in fixed nets. Do not camp near fishing huts or fishing gear. | |
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On-water Precautions Kayaking is a marine recreation activity. Seamanship rules and norms must be followed on the water. Kayakers are expected to avoid doing anything that might cause anxiety to others on the water, and not to do anything that could lead to an accident. In the Shiretoko Goko Cliffs vicinity, and the vicinity of the Kamuiwakka Waterfall, keep close to shore while being aware of falling rocks. If you see a vessel approaching when kayaking in a group, gather the group and together stay in one place. Groups should never paddle far offshore in a long line; doing so impedes commercial vessels' paths. After rounding headlands, be sure to head straight into bays, rather than cutting across. This is to prevent collisions and to avoid wind hazards. Paddling in rough seas with strong winds is dangerous. Paddling close to shore is important in Shiretoko to avoid strong offshore katabatic winds, but this also means navigating through dangerous reefs (hidden rocks, boomers). On-water Precautions There is a freedom in paddling on the sea; paddling alone is not inherently something that should be denied to the solitary paddler. Kayaking alone, however, is always dangerous because you are alone. When a sole paddler has an accident, noone knows. In order to protect the very freedom we have to kayak in the Shiretoko National Park, please try to avoid kayaking alone. | |
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Weather Characteristics of ShiretokoThe Shiretoko Peninsula is a mountain range jutting out into the sea. Rausu (1661m), Io-zan (1562.3m), and Shiretoko-dake (1254.3m) act as barriers to atmospheric flows, which sometimes become strong gusty winds that blow down from the saddle through the valley to the sea. Southeasterly winds blowing from the Rusha Passage into the Ruscha River basin and surrounding areas are called the Rusha-dashi. When the Rusha-dashi gale is strong, it's effect can be felt as far as the Tako-iwa and Ubushinotta-gawa areas, creating whilwinds and plumes of sea spray. Paddling in such conditions is dangerous. When the Okhotsk high pressure system builds up, the skies over Shiretoko area will be clear, but the seas will be enveloped in whirlwinds. Dangerous winds are not limited to the offshore winds of Rusha. Depending on the atmospheric pressure pattern, strong downdraft winds can occur anywhere. When southerly winds blow, the sea on the Rausu side is prone to fog, and during the day the sea becomes choppy. When northerly winds prevail, choppy conditions can persist on both the Utoro and Rausu sides. | |
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It's dangerous to cut across large bays as this involves time considerably offshore. It might be the shortest distance to cut across bays, but always paddle close to the shoreline, even if it takes longer. Depending on the tides, it may not be possible to get to protected navigable channels. One way to avoid having to paddle offshore in these circumstances is to carry your kayak across reefs to the safer protected channels. | |
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Brown bear hazardsBrown bears can appear anywhere along the coastline of the Shiretoko Peninsula. Bear spray is essential. If you see bears in the area where you want to land, please paddle to the next landing site if possible. Be aware that brown bears are good swimmers. Even after landing, please be aware that brown bears may be present, so clap your hands or make noise with a bell or whistle, to alert them to your presence. Do not panic if you encounter a brown bear on shore. Keep bear spray in your hand and be ready to fire it at the brown bear at any time. Do not hesitate to spray the bear if it comes within 3-5 meters of you. | |
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Brown bear precautions while camping Food and Trash Storage Methods We recommend that food and food scraps be stored inside bear-proof portable food containers and away from tents. In the past, there have been incidents where brown bears have entered tents of paddlers who stored food in their tents. For brown bear-related information, in addition to refering to the Shirecoco website, please check the bulletin boards in visitor centers and pay attention to information at visitor centre lectures. If you have any encounters, please also provide information to visitor centers after your trip. | |
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Coast Pilot for Shiretoko KayakersUtoro/Okhostk Side 1. Utoro Port 2. Horobetsu River Mouth 3. Approaching Iwaubetsu River 4. Iwaubetsu River 5. Five Lakes Cliffs (Goko-no-Dangai) 6. Mamushi-no-hama (local name) 7. Idashubetsu River | |
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8. Iroiro River (local name) 9. Kamuiwakka Falls 10. Io River 11. Ubushinotta River 12. Ponputa River to Pombetsu River 13. Rusha and Teppanbetsu River 14. No. 19 Banya and Takinoshita Banya | |
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15. Tako-iwa 16. Kashuni Waterfall 17. Kaparuwatara 18. Shiretoko River to Potopirabetsu River 19. Okicchiushi River and Kannon-iwa Rock 20. Kaizoku-wan (local name) | |
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21. Ochiai Cove (local name) Pirate Cove and Ochiai Cove are both local names - the coves are not named on government topomaps. There are many awash rocks at the entrance of Ochiai Cove. When the sea state is high, keep close to the cape in order to enter the bay. The bay is surrounded on three sides by low cliffs and has no streams. This means bears are uncommon, making it a good place to camp. Being close to Cape Shiretoko, the bluffs in the area are low. Animal tracks dot the landscape across the flat surrounding forest. 22. Poromoi 23. Shishi-iwa Rock 24. Bunkichi-wan Refuge Port 25. Cape Shiretoko | |
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Rausu Side of Peninsula (Nemuro Straits/Pacific Ocean) 26. Aka-iwa 27. Kabuto-iwa Rock 28. Nenbutsu Iwa to Otoko-taki and Onna-taki waterfalls 29. Takinohashita to Pekinohana Cape 30. From Pekin-no-hana Cape to Funadomari | |
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31. Moireushi River 32. Takenoko-iwa to Unakibetsu River and Kaseki-hama (Fossil Beach) 33. Kannon-iwa Cape 34. Kuzure-hama Beach 35. Aidomari Fishing Port | |
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Utoro Side (Okhotsk Sea) 1. Utoro Fishing Port Rausu Side (Nemuro Straight/Pacific Ocean) 26. Aka-iwa Rock | |
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PostscriptI created this booklet to explain the seas of Shiretoko in the hope that it will be useful for the safety of kayakers. It is not a guidebook, and as such it's dangerous to use it as such, considering the dynamic nature of the sea. It has been 17 years since I first published this booklet. Fortunately, no serious accidents have occurred in that time. However, there are still people, including myself, who get into trouble every year. Bad judgment and bad luck can quickly lead to fatal accidents on the Shiretoko Peninsula. In Shiretoko, it's important to carefully observe changes in sea conditions, to always check your current location on a map or chart, and to act flexibly and with plenty of time up your sleeves. Twenty years ago, during the outdoor boom, Shiretoko began to attract many kayakers. Many of them, however, had little experience. Many only had a strong sense of adventure. One capsized in the surf near Aidomari and was rescued by fishermen; another got caught in the rope of a fixed net and his kayak sank. He was left dangling from the rope as it rose and fell in heavy seas. He eventually swam for his life to shore, hanging on to the rope as it rose and fell in the heavy surf. Another kayaker failed to make it around Cape Shiretoko to the Rausu side and was swept southeast in a strong wind to Kunashiri Island. He was captured by the Russian border guards. Another intentionally crossed the median line to the Russian side and was captured by a Russian patrol boat. Another person was swept away by the wind off the coast of Rusha. After calling the Coastguard on his mobile phone, he was rescued by Mr. Ose of the No. 19 Banya. I myself almost caused accidents twice, once at Rusha and once at Nenbutsu-iwa, and as a result I caused trouble for the local community. "The Great Outdoors" is simply a modern leisure-seeker's slogan. Such slogans do not permit one to assert oneself beyond the realm of leisure. With an easy-going "Great Outdoors" mindset, there was once a group that planned a kayak tour from Rausu to Kunashiri, if you can believe it. Shiretoko is a place where fishermen live and work. Fishermen are concerned about kayakers' safety and watch over them. Working in the borderzones of Japan and Russia, they are always aware of the risk of being impounded by the other side. There is no "freedom of the great outdoors" here for kayakers. Naturally, the Rausu to Kunashiri plan was abandoned, but I later heard someone brought a plan to the local town office for a kayaking experience for a school excursion on the Shiretoko Peninsula coast. Shiretoko is not a calm lake or river, but an ocean that sometimes bares its teeth. It is not suitable for large-scale experience tours. | |
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Shiretoko is a place for real adventure. It is comparable to the remote waters of the Aleutians, Alaska, Patagonia, and other remote areas of the world. You have to solve all problems by yourself; no one is there to help you. Sea kayaking is a sport that can sometimes cost you your life. The ocean is fair, and it offers us all our fair share of dangers and joys, regardless of our experience. Modern kayakers are the descendants of countless ocean natives who paddled the seas for thousands of years in order to survive. In recent years, with an increasing number of kaykers visiting Shiretoko, there has been an increase in problems relating to put-ins, take-outs and parking. Most of the issues are caused by the kayakers. That said, if local people would treat clueless kayakers with an open mind, perhaps kayakers would one day be able to respect the people of Shiretoko and its nature and treat local people with mutual consideration. For that reason, kayakers should not hesitate to point out mistakes and annoyances on the part of locals that stem from lack of understanding. Just as they do for the surfing world, exclusivity and insularity ultimately do not bode well for the local community (nor for surf culture). That said, kayakers should embrace proper seamanship. People from all walks of life live on the ocean. Consideration for others ensures the freedom of kayaking. I can't speak for sure about the future of sea kayaking freedom in Shiretoko, but this should resonate with any good Japanese sea kayaker. In the past, the Ainu people traveled freely between Rausu and Furukamappu on Kunashiri Island. In a time when there were no countries or national borders, people could go anywhere as long as they had the will to do so. To be able to go anywhere freely is a happy thing. Freedom is precious. I am grateful to be able to continue paddling the waters of Shiretoko. To the town of Rausu and everyone at the Shiretoko Foundation who worked on the re-publication of this publication, I owe my deepest gratitude. Akio Shinya, Sea Kayak Guide | |
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Published: February 2022 Planning: Shiretoko Foundation Author: Akio Shinya Publisher: Rausu Town |
This is our unofficial English translation of the 2022 republication of the excellent Coast Pilot for Shiretoko Kayakers 知床半島カヤック水路誌 written by veteran Shiretoko sea kayak guide Akio Shinya. For the past 40 years he has led guided circumnavigations of the peninsula. See his blog (in Japanese) here. For a hard-copy of the booklet, visit the Rausu Visitor Center (location).
2 thoughts on “English Translation of Coastal Pilot for Shiretoko Kayakers”
This is a wonderful resource. Thank you for translating it.
Shinya -san is a wonderful man. It was my great privilege to paddle with him recently. His knowledge and expertise, his humility, deep respect and sense of gratitude are a fine example to all who would visit Shiretoko. If those who follow tread lightly and emulate his example, I hope the peninsula can continue be explored for many years to come. This fine resource and your excellent initiative go a long way towards making this so.
🙏💪👌
Thank you for the kind words, and I’m so glad to hear you got the opportunity to paddle with him. He’s a national treasure!