Just like old times.
After nearly four years of coronavirus exile from Japan, I’m finally standing once again at a Hokkaido trailhead. It’s a bit of a late start as Jeff has had to pick me up from Obihiro that morning and we only just manage to find a space in the packed car park.
The trail climbs steadily. There are no views to speak of, but passing through different zones of forest provides some visual relief and evidence of upward progress. Lower down the akaezomatsu pine plantations and head high sasa give way to more natural forest of todomatsu pines, which in turn changes into mountain birch dakekanba, a vibrant spring green. A pleasant flatter section at about halfway gives a temporary break from the relentless climb. Every now and then we meet some of the early starters coming back down. It’s a hot and muggy day and we are soaked in sweat after the final steep pull to the summit ridge.
We turn left and begin the gentle climb up the ridge. Up here there are only low haimatsu scrub pines and suddenly we have views in all directions. Behind us is the west summit of Pankenushi-dake, and beyond that the wild ridges of the inner Hidaka range. The bulk of Poroshiri-yama lies off to the south. It’s a great feeling to be out of the forest and into the alpine zone and we enjoy the light and space.
As we head up the gentle gradient Jeff tells me about a young local mountaineer who has made an impact recently with a full winter solo traverse of the Hokkaido watershed, from north to south over six weeks (full details here in Japanese). It sounds like an epic trip and I am interested to know more. Soon we reach the summit. A number of people are already there, a young mountain guide with three very smart and lively female clients. We all say hello, and we take off our packs.
I notice Jeff is looking quizzically at the guide. After a while he asks, ‘Excuse me, but aren’t you Nomura-san?’ The guide laughs and the ladies all chime in to confirm his identity. It’s the same guy we have just been talking about literally minutes ago! He is a former Hokkaido University student and as Jeff and I are both academics there (formerly in my case) we start chatting away. Luckily he never had to suffer through either of our classes!
After a few minutes and a couple of photo opportunities, they pack up and head back down. We pull out our lunches and an extra layer as it’s much cooler up here. Soon enough we also begin to head down. At the junction, we take a short walk along the trail leading to the other summit but decide that we haven’t got enough time to go all the way and the clouds are looking ominous. We return and head back down the main trail, and the rain comes soon after. It doesn’t last long and we descend uneventfully back to the car. The car park is now deserted except for one other vehicle. Neither of us really know this area so we are disappointed when a search for local onsen reveals nothing convenient, and we resign ourselves to an hour’s drive back to Obihiro and a crowded city onsen (mediocre) and a small local ramen shop (excellent).
Good to be back!
