‘You can’t call yourself a real Hokkaido climber until you’ve done Nipesotsu.’ It was early summer 2016, and the speaker was a grizzled but tough veteran of the Hokkaido hills in his seventies. Jeff and I were chatting to him on the summit of Ishikari-dake, looking over at the impressive peak of Nipesotsu across the expansive sea of forest to the south. It was already on our list, but now we knew we had to do it.
Then came the typhoons. It was an unprecedented few weeks in which the island took a real battering. The central area east of Daisetsusan was particularly hard hit. Countless forest roads were destroyed, so completely that they will never be reopened. One of them, unfortunately, led to the trailhead for Nipesotsu. Over the next couple of years we heard that people still braved the devastation and fought their way through to the old trailhead, but it meant at least a predawn start or an overnight expedition and somehow we never seemed to find the time. Then in summer 2018 we heard that the old route from Horoka Onsen, which had become overgrown and disused for many years, had now been cleared and reopened. Game on!
This route, though, is long and involves a lot of climbing. Jeff and I camped at Nukabira Onsen the previous night to ensure an early start. Up at 4.00 am, we fortified ourselves with coffee, bacon and eggs for the day ahead and were bright and early at the trailhead. It was a beautiful early autumn day. The first few hours were up through old mature forest with no real views, but eventually we reached a narrow ridge out of the trees to get our first glimpse of the mountain, looming massively before us. Still a long way to go, we realized.
The ridge went up and down, and finally steeply up to the main ridge where the old route came in from the right. Up here it was glorious alpine scenery, creeping pine (ハイマツ) bushes and open areas with patches of low shrubs with bright red foliage. Only a handful of other hikers were around. Beyond the small plateau of Tengudaira we could look across to the imposing main peak with its jagged summit ridge.
Before that, though, we had to descend into a substantial col before climbing back out and up the main peak. Our tiring legs resented losing the height but it was a still a glorious day so we plodded on and up, eventually reaching the top after noon. Nobody else was there. It was bright and clear, and we took in the panorama and sense of space all around us; not only could we see the Daisetsu and Tokachi mountains, but eastwards lay Akan, and far in the distance, Shiretoko.
After soaking in the view and having a bite to eat we reluctantly packed up and headed down. We knew it would be a long slog back so we wanted to be on our way down by 2.00 pm at the very latest. And, indeed, by the time we finally got back to the trailhead the shadows had lengthened and the forest was descending into gloom.
Horoka Onsen was only a few minutes away at the end of the road. And that’s just how it felt, a very end-of-the-road and slightly unreal vibe. We rolled up outside the ramshackle building in the dusk. Two foxes were curled up in front of the entrance; slightly above on the left a three-legged deer and her fawn were calmly grazing. Cue the banjo from Deliverance. We walked past them into the building. Nobody seemed to be around but after we hollered loudly a few times a wizened old lady appeared. We soon realized that the communication difficulties we were facing were not the result of our bad Japanese but because she was deaf as a post. All was soon resolved with the kind help of another patron, clearly a regular, and we headed into the baths. The facilities were extremely basic but we didn’t care a bit; as always it was great to relax in the steaming water while gazing out over the river gorge, and look back on another great day in the Hokkaido hills. At last we could call ourselves real Hokkaido climbers.
8 thoughts on “Nipesotsu-yama Dayhike”
We just did this one yesterday. We camped at the first parking lot / trailhead. There is a portable toilet there, and river close by for water. There have been recent bear sightings there, so be careful with food and thrash. The first gate here was closed for traffic, so everybody had to hike the first 2km to the second parking lot. It took us about 5,5h to summit, and 3,5h to descend. On the last push from the forest to the main ridge we encountered big snow patches which would be difficult to avoid, so sturdy boots or microspikes are handy for kicking steps. The weather forecast was so-so with clouds forecasted, but once on the ridge and summit we were treated with awesome views over to the snowy peaks of the Central Daisetsuzan. We were even lucky enough to spot some rare Tukumogusa flowers, which only bloom around this period and at altitude. The path overall was super clear, though wet and muddy in places. We did spot some fresh bear prints and droppings, so best the make enough noise and carry a bear spray just in case.
Logistics. We took the bus from Nukabira Onsen the day before at 16:21 (600yen). You can try and call them ahead, or buy a ticket at the office there around 12:30. You can reserve a ticket back two days after too (12:57 arrival time in Nukabira), but we managed to get a ride from Horoka Onsen. After the hike we spent the night relaxing and soaking in Horoka Onsen: 600yen for day-use, 4000yen per night for basic tatami room.
Thanks again, Hans! Where are you going next – Ishikaridake and Otofukeyama?
Just did Mt. Me-Akan yesterday, and are now cycling towards Mt. Rausu (taking in Lake Kussharo and Mashu). From there back west to Asahikawa to do the big Daisetsuzan Traverse if weather permits. Might squeeze in Muriidake and/or Ishikaridake along the way too.
Wow, sounds like you’re really going for it! I hope the weather works out for you and I look forward to hearing how it goes. The only time I tried Rausu-dake a bear came down the trail towards us and we turned back ☹️
Had our chance to summit Mt Rausu yesterday! We’ve been lucky with the weather, and are glad to have spent a couple of days exploring Shiretoko NP. No bears on the trail, but we did encounter one when cycling to the Goko lakes.. Have you guys done any sea-kayaking in Shiretoko? A traverse from Rausu to Utoro looks like an epic adventure! We’re back on the bicycles now heading Muuridake, aiming for the weather on Tuesday or Wednesday.
Nice one on Rausu! Rob is the sea kayak man and has done some around Shiretoko and I know a full circuit is on his list. I hope you get good weather for Muriidake, another great day out in my experience!
Hey Hans, we haven’t done the full circumnavigation of Shiretoko yet by sea kayak, but here are two day trips we have done:
– https://hokkaidowilds.org/water/aidomari-to-moiresu-sea-kayaking-shiretoko-peninsula
– https://hokkaidowilds.org/water/shiretoko-goko-cliffs-sea-kayaking
Both spectacular!
Just did it yesterday. If the gate is open you can drive 2km directly to the trailhead. The carpark there holds about 15 vehicles. But you’ll still need to sign in at the gates. This should save you an 1hr on this arduous hike. Mid summer views don’t compare in the slightest to the photos here due to the humidity in the air; I could only vaguely see the western peaks. Autumn looks like the best time.