It was one of those rare days where Windy.com was forecasting hardly a whisp of wind on the Japan Sea coast at the end of the Niseko Range. It was a prime opportunity to ski the north ridge of Raiden-yama.
I’d descended much of the ridge previously, on an overnight traverse of the Niseko Range, but this would be the first time climbing up. It would also be the first time starting from the vicinity near Narugami-no-taki falls.
On that previous traverse, we’d had very still weather for the entire traverse…until we got to the summit of Raiden-yama. A northwesterly howled across the summit pleateau, ripping snow and ice from the ridges. I was glad we were descending with the wind at our backs.
The memory of that descent down the northern ridge was seared into my mind. A beautiful pitch, wide, dramatic views.
It was going to be interesting to experience it in later spring conditions.
Haidee, Saoka and I arrived at the trailhead early. It was blue sky overhead, but the ground was frozen solid. We all had very cold fingers as we geared up.
The spring melt season was in full swing though, so for the first half hour of the trip we were fighting sasa bamboo grass to gain the ridge. Once on the ridge proper, it was smooth sailing.
Typical of the Raiden-yama coastal foothills, the lower reaches were relatively dense stands of new growth forest. As we ascended, however, it opened up.
The early morning snow underfoot was concrete. We hoped it would warm up during the day for our descent.
Iwanai Bay was like glass. The dormant Tomari Nuclear power plant stood out on the opposite side of the bay.
It didn’t take long to reach the treeline, and for the ridge to narrow. From here, the viewfinder on my camera made me feel like a kid in a candy shop. So many amazing perspectives on the land and sea below.
The ridge led us to the great snow plains of the Raiden plateau. This gently sloping area is all quite inspiring. Hopelessly windpacked in deep winter, it makes for perfect spring skiing conditions when things warm up.
This was followed soon after with the flat summit-proper of Raiden-yama. The summit sign was exposed nicely, as was the bulk of the entire Niseko Range and Yotei-zan.
I’d been eagerly looking forward to the descent. The snow on the upper portions of the route had a fine film of ice across it, with sherbert perfection underneath. Drawing us down the mountain was the view of the Japan Sea.
Predictably, the snow deteriorated somewhat as we entered the maze of thick trees at the bottom 20% of the ridge. Mercifully, it wasn’t sticky snow that would stop us in our tracks. But it was mixed with litter from trees, and then eventually, we were trying to dodge sasa bamboo grass, trying to avoid getting our skis snagged.
Despite the sasa bashing required, this was without a doubt a highlight of spring skiing I’ve done here in Hokkaido.
