Southern Daisetsuzan Traverse: Tomuraushi to Oputateshike

南大雪山トラバース

Posted on Feb 27, 2019
19 9

Posted on Feb 27, 2019

19 9

36km

Distance

22hrs

Time

2590m

Ascent

2141m

Highest point

9/10

Difficulty

Best season icon (Hokkaido Wilds)
Jul-Sept

Best season

Mt Tomuraushi (トムラウシ山, 2141m) stands at the southern end of the main Daisetsuzan range and is one of the prized 100 Famous Mountains (hyakumeizan) of Japan, known for its remoteness and alpine flowers. It can be done as a long day hike, but this three-day expedition continues southwest along a rough and less-travelled trail to link up with the string of active volcanic peaks that make up the Tokachi Range. Wild mountain camps, some tough bushwhacking and the fine summit ridge of Oputateshike (オプタテシケ山, 2013m) make this a challenging but rewarding high-level trek.

We visited this route on Aug 03, 2014

Last updated Mar 23, 2020

Route Map

Need to know details

Location

Tomuraushi-yama is located at the southern end of the Daisetsu mountain range in central Hokkaido. This three-day backpacking route traverses across to the Tokachi Range which runs southwest from Daisetsuzan to near Furano. The hike starts at the very end of the Tomarushi Onsen (トムラウシ温泉) access road, on the southern flanks of the mountain. It ends at the car park at Bogakudai (望岳台) below Tokachi-dake, a few kilometres above Shirogane Onsen (白金温泉). It could easily be extended to take in more of the peaks of the Tokachi Range such as Biei-dake (美瑛岳) if you have an extra day.

General notes

The best season for this walk is July to early September. You will almost certainly have to stay a night at the trailhead at Tomuraushi Onsen before you start, either at the single large lodge (Higashi-Daisetsuso 東大雪荘, tel: 0156 65 3021) or the campsite nearby (400yen, pay at the lodge). The campsite has basic facilities but water must be boiled or filtered. The trek ends at a popular car parking area from where you will either need to hitch a lift or walk another few kilometres down to Shirogane Onsen (hot springs, accommodation, campsite and bus to Biei Town). There is a hiking course marked on the map taking a couple of hours but I have never done it.

Camping: You need to be completely self-sufficient which means carrying a tent, and all food and fuel etc for at least three days. Finding water can be an issue; a water filter is worth having as you can refill along the way if possible. Camping in the national park is only permitted at designated campsites. Some are next to huts and have access to toilet facilities. Others, including the two on this route, are just open sites with no toilet facilities, although the Minami Tomuraushi site has a booth where you can do your business in a portable toilet (see below). Water is obtained from streams fed by snowmelt and must be boiled or filtered. The water sources can dry up later in the season; at the Futagoike site below Oputateshike it was little more than a trickle when we stayed there in early August.

Pack it out: There is an increasing problem with human waste pollution around these camping grounds. The park authorities are encouraging the use of ‘portable toilets’. These toilet kits can be bought for a couple of hundred yen at outdoor stores and consist of a large plastic bag into which you do your business, then add the contents of a magic sachet that solidifies and deodorizes the waste. You then seal this in the provided strong Ziploc-type bag, double-bag it, and pack it out to dispose of later. Some trailheads have special bins for this. If you find this procedure gross, better stick to day hikes!

Huts: There are no huts conveniently located for an overnight stay. On the third day the route passes the unmanned Bieifuji Refuge (see below).

Route Timing

Day 1: 7hrs

Day 2: 7hrs

Day 3: 8hrs

Route

The trail is well defined though muddy and/or rough in places. There are occasional splashes of yellow paint and large wooden signposts (in Japanese) at trail junctions. Times are approximate, do not include lengthy breaks for meals or frequent selfie stops, and will vary with conditions and fitness.

Day 1: From the trailhead by the Higashi-Daisetsu Lodge begin the climb up through the forest. This first section can be shortened by driving further up a forest road so day walkers with cars tend to skip it – you may be able to get a lift. After the junction where the shortcut trail merges (1.5 – 2hrs) continue up and along a ridge before dropping down steeply to Komadorizawa (コマドリ沢) in another 2hrs or so. Cross the stream and climb up through a boulder field to Maetomudaira (前トム平) (1hr). From here the trail passes through flower meadows and rock gardens up to the campsite and trail junction (トムラウシ分岐) near the Minaminuma campsite (南沼キャンプ指定地) (1.5 hrs). The summit of Tomuraushi is a 20min climb from the junction.

Day 2: Head west along the easy broad ridge to Sansendai (三川台) (2hrs). From here the trail gets rougher and runs though dwarf juniper thickets, turning south then southwest over the minor peaks of Tsuriganeyama (ツリガネ山) and Kosumanupuri (コスマヌプリ) to Futagoike (双子池) and the Futagoike campsite (双子池キャプ指定地) below Oputateshike (4-5hrs).

Day 3: Climb the imposing bulk of Oputateshike (オプタテシケ山) (2hrs). Descend the ridge and over Bebetsudake (ベベツ岳) and Ishigakiyama (石垣山) to the trail junction above the Bieifuji Refuge (美瑛富士避難小屋) (2hrs). Continue to the Bieifuji Bunki (美瑛富士分岐) trail junction in 30mins. From here (unless you have the time and energy to bag Bieidake in front of you) take the traverse path that drops down to the west, joining up with the path from Bieidake at (美瑛岳分岐) after 50mins. Drop down a steep rough section to a stream, then continue traversing around and across another stream (with steep banks and a ladder) to the junction at Kumonodaira Bunki (雲ノ平分岐) (1.5 hrs) below Tokachidake. From here it’s a 45min walk down to the trailhead at Bogakudai (望岳台).

Transport

Public transport:

To Tomuraushi Onsen: From Shintoku JR Station there is a bus operated by Hokkaido Takushoku Bus Company (0155 31 8811) during the main season (mid-July to mid-August, check the dates with the company). There are two services daily in each direction, 2000 yen one way. Booking is highly advised. If you are staying at the Higashi-Daisetsu Lodge there may be a shuttle bus service – enquire to the lodge (TEL: 0156-65-3021).

Shirogane Onsen: Five buses a day run to and from Biei JR Station. Dohoku Bus Company (0166 23 4161). 650 yen one way.

By car: 

There is ample parking at both ends of the route.

Hut(s)

Bieifuji Refuge Hut (full details here)

The unmanned Bieifuji Refuge Hut (美瑛富士避難小屋, capacity 20) is a small, very basic prefab hut near Mt. Bieifuji in the southern Daisetsuzan Range in Hokkaido. It’s also possible to camp outside the hut.

Physical maps
GSI Topo Map: Oputateshike-yama (オプタテシケ山) – map no. NK-54-7-4-3
GSI Topo Map 2: Tomuraushi-yama (トムラウシ山) – map no. NK-54-7-3-4
GSI Topo Map 3: Shirogane Onsen (白金温泉) – map no. NK-54-7-8-1

NOTE: The GSI 1/25000 topo map(s) above can be purchased for 350yen each from Kinokuniya bookstore next to Sapporo Station or online (in Japanese).

route safety

This route takes you into the wild interior of the mountain range away from more popular day hike areas and on to quieter, rougher and more isolated trails. Daisetsuzan is a dangerous place in bad weather with real risks of hypothermia for poorly equipped hikers; there is a very real reminder of that on this route as it takes you through the terrain of the tragic Tomuraushi Incident of 2009. Conditions can change quickly, it is very exposed to the wind and the upper slopes can be much colder than down at the trailhead. Carry appropriate gear and enough emergency supplies to sit out bad weather if necessary. The ridges are mainly broad and featureless and it is possible to become disoriented in mist. There are no escape routes once you start the second day of the hike apart from one trail that drops down west from Sansendai to a remote forest road. Bears are numerous; take care when coming across fresh droppings and tracks. Don’t leave any litter or food refuse when camping.

Weather forecast

Windy.com weather forecast for Southern Daisetsuzan Traverse

Onsen nearby

The Higashi-Daisetsu Lodge at Tomuraushi Onsen allows campers to use the hot-spring baths (500yen). At Shirogane Onsen the Yumoto Shirogane Onsen Hotel has a nice outdoor bath by the river (800 yen).

Extra Resources
  • Some photos from the area around Bieifuji by the Hokkaido Hiking Logs here.
  • Details about Tomuraushi hiking by Hiking in Japan here and BestHikeJapan here.

Guide Options

If you’d like to hike this route and/or explore other hikes in the central Hokkaido area together with a local certified guide, get in touch with Yasuko Kikuchi. Born and raised in Hokkaido, she’s a JMGA-certified guide now based in Sapporo. Her outdoor experience is broad and worldwide, having worked as a Canadian Ski Patrol member, and has sumitted a number of 6,000m+ peaks around the world. She speaks good English. In addition to Yasuko, also see a full list of English-speaking Hokkaido Mountain Guides Association (HMGA) guides on the HMGA website here

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Show Full Route Notes Close Route Notes

Route Trip Notes

Jeff and I did this trip in early August 2014. We had a forecast for three days of decent weather, and a pickup arranged from the car park at Bogakudai. After a day travelling by train and bus from Sapporo, we set up camp at the trailhead, eagerly anticipating the next three days. It would turn out to be a great trip, memorable for both its highs and lows.

Highlights

  • The early morning panorama of the Tokachi peaks emerging like a chain of islands from a sea of clouds below a flawless blue sky.
  • Remote campsites and tasty mountain pasta.
  • A kumataka (Hodgson’s Hawk Eagle) at the trailhead – not completely sure though.
  • A pika darting among the rocks below Maetomudaira.
  • A sighting from the summit of Tomuraushi of a bear trundling across a distant snowfield.
  • Meadows of flowers below Tomuraushi and on the broad open ridge to Sansendai.
  • The narrow summit ridge of Oputateshike in the mist, then the long high traverse to Beifuji.
  • Arriving at the pickup point hungry and thirsty to be greeted by our spouses with an organic takeaway curry and ice cold drinks.

Lowlights

  • A major gear failure when BOTH soles of Jeff’s cheap hiking boots came off completely; hardly amusing a few hours into a three-day trip. My emergency duct tape was useless in this case. Luckily he had a pair of sandals with him.
  • The long, rough and claustrophobic trail through the juniper between Sansendai and Futagoike, a lot of up and down on a hot and sticky afternoon. Not ideal in sandals.
  • Stressing about water, partly due to me underestimating the amount of fuel needed to boil the copious amounts of drinking water required by Jeff (he’s a big guy). We barely had enough – the first thing I did on getting back to Sapporo was to go out and buy a water filter.

Comments | Queries | Reports

Done this Southern Daisetsuzan Traverse route? Thinking of doing it? Please post any feedback or queries here. Thanks!

9 thoughts on “Southern Daisetsuzan Traverse: Tomuraushi to Oputateshike”

  1. Hello! Thanks for the great details here. I’m curious are there outdoor stores on the way to this route? Perhaps near Shintoku Station? I’d like to pick up a portable toilet and probably some gas for my jet boiler. I’ll be coming from Sapporo and am aware of the Shugakuso outdoor store, but due to the timing of my flight, I may not be able to get there before they close.

    1. Hi Chris, there’s nothing around Shintoku Station that I’m aware of. There is a small shop in the large lodge at the trailhead, but I don’t remember there being any gas etc, just snacks and instant noodles.

  2. I am thinking about doing the full Daisetsuzan traverse starting in mid-October.

    Do you have a sense of what the conditions might be like? I am preparing as though the snows will have started in earnest by then, and it’ll be full winter kit, full-float snow shoes, ice-axe, crampons, and a few extra days food and fuel for bad weather.

    But, this is my first trip to Japan so I’m not sure if this is merely ambitious or nearly impossible. I’m very fit and experienced in the mountains (hiking, climbing, mountaineering) — New Zealand, winter Tasmania, summer Karakoram, Himalaya and Patagonia — and have all the correct equipment and know-how to use it, and ready for a good adventure.

    Should I keep planning this, or choose something a bit further south (eg the Northern Alps Tateyama to Kamikochi traverse).

    1. Hey Diddy. Usually, the first snowfall for Asahidake and surrounding areas is between the 20th and 30th of September. Take a look at this blog post: https://www.yamatabi-hokkaido.com/asahidake201710/. This was the 1st of October 2017. As you can see, there is already snow on Asahidake. If you are prepared, you have plenty of experience hiking in snow, and the forecast is good, then there’s no problem. Safety all depends on experience, equipment, and weather forecast. The important thing to remember, however, is that even though the Daisetsuzan Range is ‘only’ just over 2000m in altitude, Hokkaido is cold. Many an experienced continental mountaineer has been caught out. October is still the start of the winter season, so weather should be relatively stable still, but I’d just say take care and make conservative decisions. Overall, I’d pin it at ambitious, but not impossible. Keep plans super flexible though. If it were me, I’d certainly give it a shot, but it would be 100% weather dependent as to whether I’d actually go through with the plan or not. Windy.com is pretty accurate to within about three days out (and often within about a week out), so if you get within a week of the trip and the weather is a white-wash, I’d start looking elsewhere. Hokkaido is a long way to come for bad weather 🙂 Hope this helps.

    2. Hi Diddy, like everywhere the weather in Hokkaido is increasingly erratic. October is shoulder season but in a normal year there will be snow on the tops in Daisetsuzan and a heavy dump is always possible. So yes, winter gear and skills are required, and settled weather is preferable. The tops are broad and open and navigation would be tough in a whiteout.
      As for the Japan Alps, again snow on the tops though I think most huts are open till the end of the month.
      Good luck!

      1. Thanks Rick and Rob.

        I completed the traverse solo in 7 days with 2 bad-weather hut days. There was snow/ice but conditions were generally quite good. Crampons were essential (ice on the steeper sections of the peaks) and snow shoes were helpful (very deep snow in some sections, particularly in the lower flatter areas). Route-finding was generally fine even with the track covered in snow, but I had good visibility apart from the 2 enforced rest days and the maps I had were very good and accurate.

        In good visibility I found the going fairly straightforward. The most difficult walking is between Mt Tomuraushi and Tokachidake where there is some thick vegetation made more difficult with snow on top, and some steep narrow ridgelines where mountaineering/climbing experience was helpful (steep exposed ice with bad fall potential).

        Because of the season and conditions I had the entire park to myself – I saw nobody between the Asahidake ropeway (day 1) and the Tokachidake onsen (day 7). I did come across fresh bear tracks in the snow but luckily I did not meet any bears (but I made a lot of noise singing to myself as I walked).

        I certainly would not recommend the walk to someone without winter experience, but for an experienced winter walker or climber it is a fantastic time to enjoy the region.

  3. Love it. Brings back memories. Sansendai to Futagoike is gut wrenching then throw in the brutal Oputateshike for good measure. Haha, can’t believe Daisetsuzan was my first real multi-day trek and second time in a tent! Awesome website. Can’t wait to get back up North!

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Southern Daisetsuzan Traverse: Tomuraushi to Oputateshike Difficulty Rating

Category

Grade

Points

Strenuousness

Vertical Gain

A

40

Time ascending

D

0

Technicality

Altitude

A

10

Hazards

D

Navigation

D

Totals

50/100

GRADES range from A (very difficult) to D (easy). Hazards include exposure to avalanche and fall risk. More details here. Rating rubric adapted from Hokkaido Yukiyama Guidebook 北海道雪山ガイド.