Southwestern Hokkaido Getaway

Posted on Oct 12, 2018
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Posted on Oct 12, 2018

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Reading time: 2 min


4 days





Highest point





NOTE: It appears that the gravel road across the pass from Setana to Shimamaki may be impassible due to nature retaking the road (overgrown, landslides etc., see Phil’s comment on Day 3’s blog post). The alternative is the beautiful stretch of coastal road to the west.
This is a 230km cycle tour along the west coast of the Oshima Peninsula at the southern end of Hokkaido. The Japan Sea coast along the western side of this peninsula is rugged and drop-dead gorgeous. Think ultra-clear water, rocky outcrops, and big views. Take the coast the whole way round to Shimamaki, or head inland over the closed gravel road to get properly off the beaten track. The route starts and finishes at JR train stations with direct train services to Sapporo City. This makes it a nice route for a few nights' getaway from the big city.

Last updated Jun 3, 2019

Route Map

Route Overview

Just like in 2013 and 2014, Haidee and I spent 2015’s Golden Week holidays (a string of back-to-back public holidays in Japan) to explore a little bit more of Hokkaido, Japan’s large northern-most island. This year, Dirk joined in on the fun too. Unlike previous years however, in order to take in vistas further afield we jumped on a train with our bikes and started the five day tour at Onuma Lake Park; some 275km or so southwest of Sapporo.

The plan was to cycle back towards Sapporo, following more or less the Japan Sea coast of southwestern Hokkaido. We wouldn’t cycle the full distance back to Chitose however (we now live in Chitose). The plan was to head to Niseko, and then hoof it back to Chitose by train.

All in all, the trip was a great success: the gravel road route I had scouted out ended up being snowed under (which allowed for my first ever experience of having to turn back during a cycle tour); we saw raging rivers; placid seas; roaring seas; had gusting 40km/h tailwinds; and great company along the way.

  • Getting there: There are a couple of main Japan Rail train lines that head from the top of the Oshima Peninsula to Sapporo. The Muroran trunk line goes via the Muroran coast and Tomakomai, and the Hakodate trunk line goes to Sapporo via Niseko and Otaru. This allows for a horseshoe loop tour from Onuma on the former to the sleepy town of Kuromatsunai on the latter, via the gorgeous Japan Sea coast on the western side of the Oshima Peninsula.

Daily Route notes

Distance: 50km | Ascent: 350m | Paved: 100% | ↓ GPX file

Accommodation: Taisei Campground (大成野営場) | 440 yen per tent

Onsen: Kaitorima Onsen (貝取澗温泉) | 400yen | 0.2km from accommodation

‘Lawn blossom’ (shiba-zakura) near Assabu, Hokkaido, Japan_17202374249_l

Distance: 40km | Ascent: 435m | Paved: 100% | ↓ GPX file

Accommodation: Makomanai Dam Park Campground (真駒内ダム公園キャンプ場) | 500 yen per tent | 200 yen per person

Onsen: Kitahiyama Onsen (北檜山温泉) | 400yen | 8.6km from accommodation

On route 345 north of Kitahiyama, Hokkaido, Japan_17388233891_l

Distance: 80km | Ascent: 1612m | Paved: 60% | ↓ GPX file

Day 5 heading back to Sapporo on the train blog post here.

Accommodation: Utasai Auto Campground (歌才オートキャンプ場ル・ピック) | 550 yen per tent | 900 yen per person

Onsen: Kuromatsunai Onsen Buna-no-Mori (黒松内温泉ぶなの森) | 500yen | 2km from accommodation

Tunnels on Route 229 around the Japan Sea coast, Hokkaido,_17181129997_l

As with each ski touring, cycle touring, and hiking route guide published on, should you choose to follow the information on this page, do so at your own risk. Prior to setting out check current local weather, conditions, and land/road/track closures. While traveling, obey all public and private land use restrictions and rules, carry proper safety and navigational equipment, and of course, follow leave-no-trace procedures. The information found herein is simply a planning resource to be used as a point of inspiration in conjunction with your own due-diligence. In spite of the fact that this information, associated GPS track (GPX, KML and maps), and all information was prepared under diligent research by the specified contributor and/or contributors, the accuracy of such and judgement of the author is not guaranteed., its partners, associates, and contributors are in no way liable for personal injury, damage to personal property, or any other such situation that might happen to individuals following the information contained in this post.

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