Below, I’ve outlined how we actually walked this route, with a few photos and links to the daily blog posts. We did the full hike from Genshigahara to Aizankei, but compressed a couple of days into one. We also had to sit out a storm for two days.
From August 8th till August 15th, 2021, we hiked the longest version of the sought-after Daisetsuzan Grand Traverse in Japan’s northern-most island of Hokkaido. 68.4km from Genshigahara (Furano City) in the south, to Aizankei Onsen (Kamikawa Town) in the north (not including side-trips). Our group was made up of experienced outdoors-people, but all only occasional hikers. Preparations for the hike began a few months ahead of the planned 8-day self-supported hike. They included meal prep, hiking training (!), and agonizing over gear. Click here for a deep-dive into those preparations, food, and kit lists.
Genshigahara Trailhead (原始ヶ原登山口) to Kamihoro Hut (上ホロ避難小屋)
11hrs 1388m 10.7km 8th August 2021
GPX KML
On Day One of the Daisetsuzan Grand Traverse we started walking from the lonely Genshigahara Trailhead 原始ヶ原登山口 at the southern-most terminus of the traverse. We climbed through the ancient forests of the Genshigahara marshlands, bush-bashed through low creeping pine buffeted by foggy gusts, and enjoyed fleeting moments of clear weather. The long 1200m ascent from the trailhead to the summit of Furano-dake 富良野岳 (1912m) was the most climbing we’d do in a single ascent on the 8-day trip. I had received my second Moderna vaccine shot the day before, so it was a long, slow day, hiking with a fever of 38.5°C (101.3°F) for most of the day. Full blog post with photos and video snaps here.
Sheltering from a Typhoon
With wind-speeds forecast up to 90km/h, we spent Days 2 & 3 (9th/10th Aug 2021) on the Daisetsuzan Grand Traverse in the leaky but safe Kamihoro Hut. The hut shook for 24 hours as the storm raged. Only a few kilometers away, another hiker lost his life during the storm. We’d banked on spending up to two days in a hut or tent waiting out weather so we had the extra rations we needed. A mix of serendipitous sleeping through an alarm, a stormy forecast, planning, and fortunate scheduling meant we got off lucky. Our hearts go out to the chap who didn’t. Full blog post here.
Kamihoro Hut (上ホロ避難小屋) to Futago-ike Campsite (双子池キャンプ指定地)
12hrs 965m 1342m 14.8km 11th August 2021
GPX KML
On Day 4 of the Daisetsuzan Grand Traverse, we walked from Kamihoro Hut to Futago-ike Campsite via the Martian volcanic landscape of Tokachi-dake 十勝岳 (2077m), and the dramatic knife-edge ridge of Oputateshike-yama オプタテシケ山 (2012m), one of Daisetsuzan Range’s more remote peaks. After sheltering from a typhoon in a hut for 48 hours, it felt great to stretch the legs with a big day, essentially combining two days into one. Once again the diversity of landscape, topography, and vegetation was spell-binding. This has to be the most engaging and variety-rich hikes I’ve ever done. Full blog post with video snips here.
Futago-ike Campsite (双子池キャンプ指定地) to Minami-numa Campsite (南沼キャンプ指定地)
9hrs 882m 347m 12.1km 12th August 2021
GPX KML
Day five on the Daisetsuzan Grand Traverse again felt like a completely different hike to the previous days. We spent a large portion of the day hiking through tall, fragrant dwarf pines. We strode through thickets of bamboo grass. Approaching Tomuraushi-yama トムラウシ山, the high plateau of Sansendai 三仙台 gave us expansive views of mountain tarns and the distant peaks we’d come from in the preceding days. We capped the day off with a quick summit of the rocky Tomuraushi-yama, with our campsite nestled into the saddle below. Blog post here.
Minami-numa Campsite (南沼キャンプ指定地) to Chubetsu-dake Hut (忠別岳避難小屋)
7.5hrs 293m 626m 10.4km 13th August 2021
GPX KML
Despite being the middle of summer, we woke to frost on the ground on Day Six of the Daisetsuzan Grand Traverse. Camped at a shade over 2000m altitude, it was a chilly but calm start to the day. Our route would traverse the iconic volcanic boulders north of Tomuraushi-yama トムラウシ山 (2141m), and brush past a number of pristine alpine tarns. The shorter day allowed us time to relax and rejuvenate at the rustic but beautifully situated Chubetsu-dake Hut 忠別岳避難小屋. We even managed a refreshing wash in the snowmelt creek. Full blog post here.
Chubetsu-dake Hut (忠別岳避難小屋) to Uraasahi Campsite (裏旭キャンプ指定地)
7.5hrs 1020m 584m 19.7km 14th August 2021
GPX KML
On day seven of our Daisetsuzan Grand Traverse journey we covered some of the most iconic scenery in the northern end of the Daisetsuzan National Park. We compressed two days walking into one, walking across the expansive Takanegahara 高根ヶ原 alpine plateau, dropping in on the newly rebuilt Hakuun-dake Hut 白雲岳避難小屋, and skirting around the great expanse of the Ohachidaira crater 御鉢平. We topped the day off with a quick foray into the colorful volcanic scenery of Ura-asahi, just below Hokkaido’s highest peak of Asahidake 旭岳 (2291m). This would be our last night on the trail. Full blog post here.
Uraasahi Campsite (裏旭キャンプ指定地) to Aizankei Onsen (愛山渓温泉)
9hrs 425m 1485m 14.5km 15th August 2021
GPX KML
It was a bitter-sweet last day on our Daisetsuzan Grand Traverse journey today. We hiked across inspiring volcanic ridgelines, floated above seas of clouds, and finally made our descent to the terminus of this ‘full’ Daisetsuzan Grand Traverse, Aizankei Onsen. Along the way we would summit Hokkaido’s second-highest peak, Hokuchin-dake 北鎮岳 (2244m). After eight days on the trail with no proper wash, the hotspring soak at Aizankei Onsen was just reward for our efforts. Now, it was back to reality in the lowlands…full blog post here.
9 thoughts on “Daisetsuzan Grand Traverse”
hey guys, thank you very much for the detailed article!
I will be going fro Asahidake to Tokachidake early in October and was wondering how the water/snow situation is there that time of year.
You’ll very likely get snowed on, but you may get lucky and not have to walk in snow. I’d certainly be preparing for snow though! As for water, that will depend 100% on how much rainfall there has been – many of the water sources (e.g., Chubestsu-dake Hut, Biei-fuji Refuge etc) will not be fed by snow any more. I’d advise to always carry more water than you think you may need.
Hi Rob – just done one version if the Grand Traverse – Genshi Gawahara to Asahidake. A Belgian couple were starting at the same time, having read your route guide. Wonder if you’ve started something… English speaking foreigners now do the traverse south to north – Japanese folk, the traditional north to south.
On Oputateshikeyama, I managed to stand on a boulder that upended, taking me with it – did a face-plant on a rock – not to be recommended- assisted by a couple of other hikers back to Biei hut – I carried on the next day with a spectacular black eye. The colours came out more and more strongly as I walked up the range – to the extent that when I turned up at Hakuundake hut, they wanted me to go straight to a hospital. Which I was definitely not going to do – after all, I was clearly fine, and nearly there!
Thanks for the call about which way to go on the Tomurauchiyama boulderfield. The clag was down, the wind was up, I was alone, no path markings in sight, and it’s quite intimidating. But I remembered ‘Rob said go right!’ I went right – there was the trail!
One question about timings on the avenza maps (great resources by the way – thanks so much). Day 4 Futago Ike – Kosumanupuri- Tsurigane – on the Avenza maps it gives 1h35 for both these legs. Is that intentional? On the paper ‘Kogen’ map, it gives 2h30 for each. That’s quite a difference – personally I took 2hours for each leg, and generally I was faster than suggested times.
One bit of kit I wanted to mention that I use loads here in Japan is a foldable water bag – often the water source has been a 20 – 30 minute round trip, and personally I want to carry all the water I’ll need in one go.
Yes…. my first taste of Daisetsuan – just stunning, and so varied. Already planning my next trip! Thanks so much.
What an amazing traverse this is. Such a vast and varying landscape in such a “short” distance, from barren volcanoes to dense bushes and rugged peaks. Here’s a short recap of our route. We did start and end at different trailheads to make the transport logistics a bit easier.
We left with 7 days of food. The forecast indicated 3 days of very clear weather, and storms coming in on day 4 or 5. So we did a couple of long days to make good use of the pristine sunny weather.
DAY 1: Tokachidake Onsen – Furanodake – Kamihorro Refuge
We took transport from the Asahikawa region to Tokachidake Onsen. There are regular trains bound for Kamifurano JR Station, from where there are 4 daily buses to Tokachidake Onsen. We took the bus around noon, to arrive at Tokachidake Onsen around 2pm. From there it’s a 4h hike to Kamihoro Refuge, including going up Furanodake. You can go straight to Kamihoro Refuge in about 2-3h, but Furanodake is too nice to miss out! Kamihorro Refuge has recently been completly rebuild. Water needed to be collected from puddles below the snow fields.
DAY 2: Kamihorro Refuge – Bieiedake – Futagoike campsite – Minaminuma campsite
This was a long one… We combined day 2, 3 and 4 in one very long day. It was just doable in one day (it took us approx 14h), though we wouldn’t recommend it. Especially with the bushwacking section between Futagoike and Minaminuma. A better combination might be to get to Tokachidake Onsen early, and continue to Bieifuji Refuge on Day 1. From Bieiefuji to Minaminuma campsite in one day should be more comfortable. Lots of running fresh water.
DAY 3: Minaminuma camspite – Tomuraushiyama – Chubutsudake – Hakuundake refuge – Hakuundake
Another double day, but very doable. Less climbing, no bushwacking and easier terrain than the previous days. Brown bear sighted near the summit of Chubutsudake… Hakuundake refuge was still unmanned, but we camped. We climbed Hakuundake in the evening, since we were expecting bad weather the next day. Clear and running fresh water at the campsite.
DAY 4: Hakuundake Refuge – Asahidake – Asahidake Ropeway
As expected, we woke up in the clouds and rain. By the time we summited Asahidake, we’d been hiking in heavy winds and rain all morning. It didn’t look like it wasn’t going to clear anytime soon, and the weather was only going to get worse over the next few days. So we cut the day short, and descended to Asahidake Onsen.
Thank you very much for the detailed report Hans! Since you did the hike in June, how was the snow situation? Any issues with steep snow and/or navigation over snow fields?
No big issues with snow. The biggest and steepest slope was probably on the back side of Asahidake, but it was still very manageable with our lightweight trail shoes. We did bring some spikes just in case, but neved had to use them.
Great to hear, Hans!
Hi,
What a great resource! Thank you.
I’m resident in Tokyo and am considering soloing the Grand Traverse but wouldn’t mind sharing the experience with anyone thinking of doing the Grand Traverse or any of its variants in September 2023. I can be flexible with my dates but have pencilled in the first week.
I have extensive experience all around the World.
All the best,
Cheers Carlos. I hope you find some partners to hike the Grand Traverse with. Perhaps try posting in these Facebook Groups: Hokkaido Hikers and Campers, Hiking, Climbing and Camping in Japan, Hiking In Japan Community or Bicycle touring, hiking and friends in Japan.